YEAST———-

Alcohol is produced from yeast.  Yeast is a living single cell organism with is actually a fungus.  The yeast cells eat the sugars in a water solution and then excrete alcohols as they take in more sugar.

Yeast produces alcohol, but Ethanol is only one of the alcohol types produced.   The unwanted Methanol is another alcohol produced, as well as other non desirable alcohols and oils.

Yeast water and sugar alone will not produce alcohols.  The specific essential nutrients such as vitamins and minerals are essential for yeast to function.  These nutrients can come from fruits and grains with enzymes.  However if the yeast doesn’t have their required vitamins and minerals they will stop working and die.

Yeast eat glucose, fructose and sucrose. They eat the glucose first. Then they work a little harder to eat the other two (combination of molecules).

TYPES OF YEAST—————

TURBO YEAST

This is a packet containing a fast growing yeast and the necessary nutrients.  It is designed for a straight sugar mash.  It is best to use a yeast that is targeted to the type of alcohol you are making.  These targeted yeasts do not come with nutrients so they must be added for the yeast to multiply and then produce alcohol.  In an all sugar mash the sulfur will be noticed with no other ingredients to mask the taste.  

48 Hour Turbo Yeast

This is a packet containing a fast growing yeast that is resistant to alcohol. The packet also contain the necessary nutrients.  It is perfect for a straight sugar mash.  A packet contains yeast, nutrients, and dimonium phosphate (this is the energy booster).

24 Hour Turbo Yeast

Just a marketing ploy. You can’t speed up yeast activity.

Dimonium Phosphate

This is an additive that give the Turbo name meaning. Because there is little nitrogen present in a mash, this increases the nitrogen in the liquid which stimulates the yeast activity.

It is best to use a specialized yeast that is targeted to the type of alcohol you are making.  The targeted yeasts many times do not come with nutrients so they must be added for the yeast to multiply and then produce alcohol. 

WHISKEY YEAST

High tolerance for alcohol.  Strains vary flavors.  Main flavors from oak and grains.

For whiskey (corn or malt) the best bet is a dry ale yeast.  Use 4 grams per gallon for high ABV., which is any distilled batch.  Higher than 4 grams per gallon will get you some sulfur flavors that can be hard to get rid of.  

BAKERS YEAST

Low tolerance for alcohol and will die at around 7% ABV.  It is very very slow at producing and does not have a good flavor.  It will take a long time … avoid it!

RUM YEAST

There is a special strain of yeast used for sugar in molasses to maximize flavor.  Note that the sulfur will be noticed with no other ingredients to mask the taste.  Add honey.

FRUIT YEAST

Fruit has a special strain of yeast because of the high sugar content.  Adding nutrients with the yeast are not necessary.

Yeast Pitch Rate and Starter Calculator link

 

 

 

 

STORING YEAST————–

Dried yeast will deteriorate by air alone.  Only use yeast packets that are nitrogen flushed and sealed.  There is also bacteria in the air that will attach to the yeast and nutrients adversely affecting the yeast production, taste and aroma.

Room temperature also affects the life of yeast even if in a sealed packed.  Be sure and refrigerate the packet.  When it is time to use the yeast, make sure it stabilizes to room temperature otherwise it will die in the warm mash from the shock of temperature change. 

Dried yeast will deteriorate by air alone.  Only use yeast packets that are nitrogen flushed and sealed.  There is also bacteria in the air that will attach to the yeast and nutrients adversely affecting the yeast production, taste and aroma. Keep in plastic bag and refrigerate close to 34F.

Room temperature also affects the life of yeast even if in a sealed packed.  With a new unopened packet be sure to refrigerate the packet at close to 34F.  Keep one of those moisture wicking silicone packets in with the yeast to keep it dry from any moisture that might get in.

When it is time to use the yeast, make sure to stabilize it down to room temperature, otherwise it will die in the warm mash from the shock of temperature change. 

SANITIZING EQUIPMENT———–

All utensils such as stirring paddle, pot, etc. the is used must be sanitized to avoid any contamination from bacteria present in the air.  This involves wiping down surfaces with a cleaning agent.  Do Not use a wooden mixing paddle because bacteria lodges in the pores. 

A teaspoon (5ml) of bleach in five gallons of water (19L) is one that can be made easily.  You must rinse well with hot water.

CTSP or chlorinated trisodium phosphate is a dual purpose cleaner and sanitizer.  Also potassium bromide.

Star San is a product from Five Star Chemicals found in brew stores.  This does not require rinsing but is acidic so it should be wiped down.

Alcohol is an excellent sanitize agent.  The store bought isopropyl alcohol with 70% ABV is optimal.  100% ABV is NOT good since it will freeze dry any organisms which will come to life when rehydrated.   

FERMENTING——————–

Yeast is one of the two main factors in aroma and taste of alcohol.  The other main factor is the main ingredient used such as wheat, rye, etc.

When buying a desired strain of yeast look for urea free yeast.  This adds a cleaner taste but more importantly there is no ethal cabomate produced which is a carcinogen. 

OXYGEN

Yeast make alcohols by anaerobic fermentation.  This means an oxygen starved environment.  Oxygen is essential right at the start of fermentation to enable the yeast to multiply, called budding.  This is the lag phase of distilling.  But a continuous supply of oxygen will produce a vat of yeast and no alcohol.  The yeast uses some of the sugars to reproduce.  The reproduction is rapid.   Most reproduction is finished 4 to 6 hours and no longer than 12 hours.  Once the oxygen is gone reproduction stops and the production of alcohol begins.

YEAST STRESS

When conditions are not ideal for a strain of yeast is becomes stressed producing foul smelling non-flavorful non-healthy  byproducts. 

Another stress on yeast is alcohol.  Yeast dies in alcohol solution.  However while they are producing alcohol they develop a tolerance for it up to a point where they will die.  An alcohol per centage solution that will normally kill yeast will not kill them when they are producing and developing a tolerance. 

IDEAL TEMP FOR YEAST

Yeast is sensitive to temperature they live in.  Cold and the production slows and they even die if colder than their threshold.  Warmer than they like and they produce faster but unwanted oils.

YEAST DIE OR GO DORMANT

Some of the yeast dies off (reached max of daughter cells) and some yeast goes dormant when there are no sugars left to consume.  This process or cycle is called fermentation.  At the end of fermentation the ethanol alcohol is floating on the mostly on the top since it is a light fluid.  There is a middle layer where the ethanol is mixing with the mash.  The other heavier fluids and materials are on the bottom.  The dead and dormant yeast is the heaviest of the particles and falls to the very bottom. 

PRE-PROOF YEAST

use 4 to 8 oz coffee cup .. starter

then take initial gravity reading

Add yeast nutrient = Diammonium Phosphate, Fermax brand nutrient 

Aerate the mash with oxygen from a bubbler pump.  This infuses oxygen for the yeast to use.  There is already oxygen in the mash but this assures there is plenty.

74 F to start … will rise slightly as fermentation is in process

OVER UNDER PITCHING

If you “over-pitch” your yeast- just make sure you have a LOT of copper to get rid of the extra sulfur compounds.  

Under pitching causes a long lag time that can allow bacterial infection to take hold in the mash.

Sugar Only

In an all plain Sugar Wash the sulfur will be noticed with no other ingredients to mask the taste.